As the front line of China’s constant reinterpretation of the notion of “modernity”, the city is on permanent fast forward when it comes to urban development, and is continually being ripped up and rebuilt – a factor responsible for the strange lack of cohesion between Beijing’s various districts. Though Beijing has been transformed over the last two decades to such an extent that it is barely recognizable, it still remains – spiritually and geographically – the buzzing heart of the nation.

Yet the city remains firmly rooted in the past: for the last seven hundred years, much of the drama of China’s history has been played out here, a place that saw the emperors enthroned at the centre of the Chinese universe inside the Forbidden City, and later witnessed the chaos of the early communist years. And yet it’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer dynamism of this brash, gaudy, elegant, charming, filthy and historic city: whether partying to punk in a club, admiring the bizarre modern architecture spiking the skyline, or pushing your way through the bustling, neon-soaked streets, Beijing is never, ever dull. OPPOSITE THE TEMPLE OF HEAVEN PREVIOUS PAGE HAND-PRINTING CHINESE SCRIPTĪs the capital of one of the world’s most dynamic economies, the bold modernity of Beijing (北京, běijīng) should take nobody by surprise. Make the Most of Your Time on Earth at ģ East of the centre 4 South of the centre 5 West of the centreģ SANLITUN 2 Workers’ Palace DIANMEN DONGCHENG Stadium 2ND RING ROADīeijing North Prince Railway Gong’s Station INSIDE THIS BOOK INTRODUCTION What to see, what not to miss, author highlights and more – everything you need to get started BASICS Pre-departure tips and practical information THE GUIDE Comprehensive, neighbourhood-by-neighbourhood guide to Beijing, with full-colour maps featuring all the listings, plus excursions further afield, including to the Great Wall, Tianjin and Chengde LISTINGS Where to sleep, eat, drink and shop, plus all the best clubs and theatres CONTEXTS The city’s history, and recommended books and films MAP SECTION Detailed city plans, for easy navigation We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the Guide with the ★ symbolġ The Forbidden City and Tian’anmen Square 2 North of the centre

1 The Forbidden City and Tian’anmen Square 40.ġ0 Drinking and nightlife 151.ġ1 Entertainment and the arts 157.ĬITY PLAN 216.

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